Buying Bespoke: A Guide on the Pieces to Invest In

An FYI before I start this edition: I changed the name of the newsletter from „Style & Tailoring“ to „Bespoke Style“. I like that better.

Buying Bespoke - a Guide

What comes to your mind when you think of bespoke clothing? Some geezer getting a suit made in Savile Row? Something that sounds great in theory, but not like something you’d ever know where or how to start on (whispers: let alone afford)?

Fret not, this edition of the newsletter is here to help!

First, a disclaimer: Bespoke clothing is an investment. Usually, you’re looking at at least an investment that is the equivalent to an upper mid-range brand. Think Theory or Tibi. 

When you get bespoke pieces, you invest in the fabric, expertise of the artisan, and the fact that you will have something that fits you like a glove. Plus, if you’re into it, the satisfaction that you’ll have a piece unique.

Getting bespoke can be very overwhelming. There are so many options and there’s no designer’s vision for how you can or should look in the coming season. A skilled artisan can guide you in how to develop your own vision for your clothes.

Then, there’s also the question of budget. Even if very generous, most people have a budget or amount they’re willing to spend on clothing. This has changed dramatically, by the way. In the 1950s households in the US spent 12% - 14% of their annual income on clothes. Now, in the age of fast fashion, it’s around 3%. People buy more clothes, but at a lesser quality.

It’s the inverse of what this newsletter stands for: style over fashion, quality over quantity, intent over impulse purchases.

Anyways, I digressed...

How to Prioritize Investments in Bespoke Clothing

1. Standout, high-performance items like coats or suits

These are things you’ll wear a lot and that will pull your style together. High quality pieces with a great fit make a gigantic difference here. Your coat or suit will be standout items you wear over and over again.

To stand the test of time, they need to be made from exceptional materials inside and out. A great coat can pull together any outfit. Investing in a custom one pays off in the long run.

2. Occasion wear

Wedding dresses or outfits for your engagement party, clothes to wear for your or when attending graduations, weddings and engagement parties, or elegant events are perfect for a bespoke treatment.

You can start off by creating one or two pieces to rotate. Your tailor can help you create details you can change, like the color of sashes on dresses, to keep the clothes looking fresh and interesting even when you rewear them.

A bespoke wedding dress is extra fun, when you consider altering it to be able to wear it after your wedding. Keira Knightley has done that. When she got married in France, she re-wore a Chanel haute couture dress she had already given a spin on the red carpet (thought it doesn’t look like any alterations were made.).

3. Traditional clothing

This only applies to regions where heritage clothing is still worn. As an example: The region I’m from has a vibrant culture of traditional dress, in particular around the dirndl.

Getting a bespoke one works with the shape of your body while keeping in mind versatility and longevity. Bespoke dirndl are unique and can be created to keep in mind changes in your body over time. When a top or skirt breaks, you can replace them, making a bespoke dirndl a garment you’ll have for a long time. I still wear mine that I got for my high school graduation almost 20 years after the fact.

4. Made-to-measure staples like pants and shirts

The best course of action here is to create a pattern with your tailor that you can use over and over again. Once you have your standard „you“-dress or -pants figured out, all you need to do is buy fabric and drop it off at your tailor’s to get started. Or, they help you find fabric.

Working from the same base pattern is great, because it establishes your personal silhouette and style. It’s also immensely practical for styling. You’ll know which sweaters or shirts go with your custom pants and can mix and match them.

5. Extras of everything

Once you have a good coat, a good suit, a great dress for special occasions, and maybe your own pattern for signature pants, skirts, or shirts, you can get extras. A second coat can help with styling combinations and to reduce wear and tear on the initial one.

My Tailor’s Thoughts on This

I asked my tailor whether she had any thoughts on this. She said the most important thing is to buy the highest quality you can afford even for non-tailored pieces. Look at labels, go for natural fabrics, and make a list of things to get at sales to get better quality at your respective budget level.

She also leaned slightly in favor of getting basic pieces tailored before you invest in a coat.

From my perspective, this depends on the wardrobe you already have and what you need.

For example: I’ve noticed that people shop in a very disorganized way when it comes to occasion wear. They spring for what’s on sale only to accumulate a bunch of dead-weight party dresses in their closets. It may be smarter to invest in one or two good pieces that can go from the theater to a wedding to a graduation effortlessly, especially with the right accessories. This is especially the case if your body falls outside standard clothing sizes because of, for example, your height or proportions.

Irrespective of the clothes you’ll be getting, bespoke is a long-term investment in your wardrobe and yourself. 

Made to measure pieces not only fit better, but last longer. It’s a win-win: you’ll look great wearing the piece and get to do so for a long time.